Restoration by Damage Type

Scratches & surface marks

The most common damage and the easiest for AI to fix. Surface scratches, dust marks, and light abrasions are reliably removed by the Restore tool. Even dense scratch patterns across an entire print usually clean up well.

Scan at 600 DPI or higher so the AI can distinguish scratches from real detail. Clean the scanner glass before scanning — dust on the glass adds false scratches that the AI then has to remove unnecessarily.

Fading & low contrast

Prints fade over time, losing contrast and shifting color. Black-and-white prints lose their deep blacks. Color prints develop a magenta or yellow cast as different dye layers fade at different rates.

Restore handles fading well, recovering contrast and correcting color shift. For severe fading where the image is barely visible, Enhance after Restore can pull out additional detail. Photos stored in albums with plastic sleeves often fade unevenly — the center stays darker while edges bleach.

Tears & creases

Physical tears and fold creases are structural damage. AI fills the missing area with plausible content based on surrounding context. Results are good for backgrounds, clothing, and simple areas. Tears through faces are harder — if the original face is unrecognizable due to damage, the AI result will be a hallucination, not a restoration. Always verify against other photos of the same person.

Scan both pieces aligned as closely as possible. The AI works better when the pieces are close to their original position than when there is a visible gap between them.

Water damage

Water causes staining, wrinkling, emulsion lifting, and sometimes photos sticking together. Mild water stains (tidelines, edge discoloration) are handled reasonably well by Restore. Severe water damage — where the emulsion has lifted, bubbled, or stuck to glass — is the hardest damage type.

If a photo is stuck to glass or another surface, do not try to peel it — this usually destroys more of the image. Scan through the glass if possible, or consult a professional conservator. For loose water-damaged prints, let them dry flat before scanning.

Mold & foxing

Mold appears as fuzzy spots, often green or black. Foxing shows as small brown or rust-colored spots, common on prints from the 1880s–1920s. Both are surface contamination that partially obscures the image beneath.

Restore can remove mild to moderate foxing and mold staining. Heavy mold that has eaten into the emulsion is harder — the damage is not just on the surface but through the image layer. Handle moldy photos with gloves and scan in a ventilated area.

Color shifts (color prints)

Color prints from the 1960s–1990s are particularly prone to color shifts as chemical dyes degrade. The most common shift is toward magenta (reds and pinks dominate). Yellow casts and cyan loss are also common.

Restore corrects these shifts by analyzing the overall color balance and adjusting. Photos with extreme shifts may benefit from Enhance after Restore to fully recover natural-looking color.

Motion blur & camera shake

Blur from handheld phone captures, photos-of-photos, or soft consumer cameras from the 1950s–1970s. The image has detail but it is spread across adjacent pixels, making everything look soft or smeared.

Run Deblur as the first step before Restore — it sharpens the input so downstream models have cleaner data to work with. If you have the original print, a flatbed scan at 600+ DPI will always produce better results than deblurring a phone capture.

Glare & reflections

Hot spots and washed-out patches from overhead lighting on glossy prints, flash reflections, or photos captured through glass frames or plastic album sleeves. Mild glare partially obscures the image; heavy glare completely washes out areas.

For mild to moderate glare where the underlying detail is still partially visible, Deglare can reduce the hot spots. For heavy glare that completely washes out an area, rescanning with indirect natural light or using Google PhotoScan (multi-angle capture) is significantly more effective than AI correction.

Silver mirroring

A bluish metallic sheen on dark areas of old black-and-white prints, caused by silver migration to the surface. Common on prints from the 1880s–1940s. Gives dark areas an iridescent, mirror-like appearance.

Restore can reduce silver mirroring in most cases. For best results, scan with the scanner lid closed to avoid reflections from the mirrored surface mixing with external light.

When to Seek Professional Help

AI restoration handles the vast majority of family photo damage well. But for certain situations, a professional conservator is the better choice:

• Photos stuck to glass, frames, or each other
• Daguerreotypes, ambrotypes, or tintypes — AI restore models cannot process these formats reliably. They require professional conservation scanning (never standard flatbed scanners) and physical handling by a trained conservator.
• Fire-damaged or charred prints
• Historically significant photos where accuracy is critical
• Original negatives or slides with physical damage

For everything else — the everyday family photos that make up most collections — AI restoration produces excellent results and makes preservation accessible to everyone.